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Nur die beste Würze für das Christkindl


Weihnachten ist aus kulinarischem Blickwinkel ja immer wieder etwas ganz Besonderes. Traditionell oder außergewöhnlich, regional oder international, ein Mehrgänge-Menü oder einfache Traditionskost – alle Jahre wieder sind auch der Vielfalt und den Möglichkeiten keine Grenzen gesetzt.
Ein Artikel von Andrea Kocher

Der Duft von frischem Thymian und Rosmarin aus der Küche des Mesnerhauses in Mauterndorf allein ist eine Verlockung! In dem Fall ist es eine heimisch gezüchtete Ente vom Biobauernhof, die Josef Steffner zubereitet. Es hat sich wohl nichts geändert, dass an den Festtagen vorrangig Geflügel, aber auch Rindfleisch in allen Variationen, Wild oder – ganz klassisch – der Schweinsbraten auf die Tafel kommen. Das begründet sich in früheren Zeiten, als Tiere über das Jahr gezüchtet und im Herbst geschlachtet wurden, und die Vorratskammern nach der Gemüseernte bestmöglich gefüllt waren. „Diese Tradition hat vielleicht insofern etwas eingebüßt, da heutzutage so gut wie jedes Lebensmittel das ganze Jahr über erhältlich ist“, vermutet Josef Steffner.

Regionalität in der Haubenküche
Seit über zehn Jahren führt er gemeinsam mit seiner Frau Maria das Mesnerhaus in Mauterndorf. Saisonal zu kochen ist den beiden Gastgebern das ganze Jahr über ein Anliegen. Exotische Köstlichkeiten, die über lange Wege aus fernen Ländern importiert werden müssen, Hummer zum Beispiel, haben im Mesnerhaus nicht die Priorität. Aus dem saisonalen Gedanken heraus begründet es sich auch, weshalb Geflügel traditionell auf der weihnachtlichen Festtags-Menükarte in dem Lungauer Gourmethaus steht. Die Bauernente etwa stammt aus der biologischen Aufzucht von David Wieser aus Kuchl – das ganze Tier wird in der Küche verarbeitet: Die Entenbrust wird später als Hauptgericht aufs Teller kommen, die anderen Fleischteile sind für die Suppe. Auch alle weiteren Komponenten des Festmenüs sind „heimisch“. Die roten Rüben, Teil der Beilage, sowie das Balsampappelöl zur Verfeinerung der Suppe sind von Sepp Holzer, Krameterhof in Ramingstein. Die Lungauer Eachtling der exklusiven Sorte „Mayan Gold“ kommen vom Anthoferbauern Hans Moser in St. Michael. Den einzigartigen Geschmack bekommt die Entenbrust durch das Braten mit frischem Thymian und Rosmarin sowie einer zerdrückten Knoblauchzehe, verfeinert mit dem selbstgemachten Mesnerhaus-Kräutersalz.
Vom Auslösen der Ente bis zum liebevollen Anrichten: Dem erfahrenen Haubenkoch Josef Steffner gehen alle Schritte mühelos von der Hand. Für den Hobbykoch hingegen mag es durchaus nach Plan und Organisation verlangen. Ohne Liebe zum Kochen wird es ohnehin nicht klappen, im Idealfall stehen mehrere kochbegeisterte Familienmitglieder gemeinsam in der Küche. Die Antwort auf die Frage, was denn nun auf den Festtagstisch kommt, haben außerdem Geschmack und Gusto der Esser. Natürlich!

Die Bratwurst – Lungauer Weihnachtsoriginal
Der Heiligabend bleibt hingegen eher im Zeichen der kulinarischen Schlichtheit. Zurückhaltung beim Essen ist deswegen aber ebenso nicht nötig. Die Würstlsuppe oder eine kalte Platte mit Roastbeef und Variationen vom Festtagsschinken sind schließlich genauso gute Sattmacher. Den Christtag bestimmen in Österreichs Regionen verschiedene Traditionen, das ist auch in Salzburg so. Eine solche Tradition führt den Genießer in den Lungau: Hier ist in den letzten Jahren mit der Bratwurst ein althergebrachtes Gericht wieder in Trend gekommen.
Einer, der diese Entwicklung beobachtet und mitgetragen hat, ist Dorfwirt Karl Steinwender aus Ramingstein. Seit nun sieben Jahren ist in seinem Traditionsgasthaus kurz vor der steirischen Grenze der erste Adventsonntag zum „Bratwurst-Sonntag“ erklärt. Die Gäste werden immer mehr, das typische Lungauer Gericht – das nicht nur an Heiligabend auf die Tische kommt, sondern auch durch den ganzen Advent begleitet – ist begehrt. „Ich freue mich, dass das Interesse wieder gestiegen ist“, sagt Karl Steinwender. Dass die Bratwürste hausgemacht sind, darauf ist der Wirt und gelernte Metzger zu Recht stolz. Die heimische Herkunft und hohe Qualität sind es nicht zuletzt auch, was der Konsument schätzt
.
Am „Bratwurst-Sonntag“ wird das kulinarische Weihnachtsoriginal gebührend zelebriert: serviert mit Sauerkraut, Eachtlinggröstl (Kartoffelgröstl), Senf und Kren, gereicht mit frischem Bauernbrot von der Schwester. „So spielt sich das bei uns ab, und in vielen Familien wohl auch“, ist Karl Steinwender überzeugt. Auch er meint, dass in den heimischen Küchen gerade an Heiligabend nicht mehr unbedingt gerne aufwändig gekocht wird

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. „’Herumgepfandelt’ wird, wenn dann, noch am ehesten mit dem Fondue-Geschirr. Bei uns aber hat eine gute Bratwurst wieder Tradition!“ Das Wissen bei der Herstellung der Bratwürste gibt Karl Steinwender auch weiter. Über den Verein „Lungauer Kochwerk“ bietet er im Dezember einen eigenen Kurs an. „Bratwürste selbst herzustellen, ist etwas ganz Einfaches. Kochen muss im Allgemeinen nicht kompliziert sein.“ In die Lungauer Bratwurst kommt nur das beste Fleisch vom Schwein. „Wie bei der guten Bratwurst ist es generell beim Kochen so: Je besser das Rohprodukt, desto besser das Endprodukt.“ Die heimische Landwirtschaft verspricht beste Qualität, und diese macht sich im Geschmack eben bemerkbar.

Süße Verführung zum Schluss
Das süße Muss auf der Weihnachtstafel 2017 nicht zu vergessen, dazu rät die erfolgreiche Foodbloggerin Catrin Neumayer. Auf cookingCatrin.at präsentiert die gebürtige Salzburgerin eine kreative Auswahl an Desserts, das süße Tüpfelchen auf dem i für jedes klassische Hauptgericht an Weihnachten. Stark im Trend sind, so erklärt Catrin Neumayer, die schmackhaften Drip Cakes. Sie sind zweifelsohne eine köstliche Konkurrenz zu Weihnachtskeksen, von denen man an den Feiertagen meist ohnehin schon eher genug hat. cookingCatrin ist überzeugt: „Besonders beim Dessert darf es zu Weihnachten festlich werden! Die Drip Cakes – Törtchen, wo die Glasur in Tropfenform über den Rand läuft – sind voll im Trend. Wir servieren jedem Gast einen kleinen schokoladigen Kuchen mit Grantn (Preiselbeermarmelade) gefüllt. Zu den Festtagen wird passend mit Cranberries dekoriert.“
Die Zubereitung der Mini Drip Cakes ist überdies eine wundervolle familiäre Aktivität für den 24. Dezember, wo auch die Kinder mitbacken können und sich so die lange Zeit des Wartens auf das Christkind noch etwas verkürzt!

CFB_4579

Schoko-Lebkuchen – Mini Drip Cake
Rezept von cookingCatrin 

Zutaten (für 12 Stück)
250 g Butter, 250 g Zucker, 5 Eier (L), 1 gehäufter TL Lebkuchengewürz, 350 g Mehl, 200 g Sauerrahm, 1 Pkg. Backpulver, 90 g Kakao, 130 g Nüsse (gemahlen), 150 g Schokoladenglasur, 12 gehäufte TL Preiselbeermarmelade, 125 g frische Preiselbeeren (zum Garnieren)

Zubereitung
Die Butter schmelzen. Die Eier mit dem Zucker mehrere Minuten mit der Küchenmaschine schaumig schlagen. Die geschmolzene Butter und den Sauerrahm einrühren. Die Nüsse in einer Pfanne kurz anrösten. Mehl, Nüsse und Backpulver, Kakao und Lebkuchengewürz vermischen und die Mischung nach und nach unter den Teig heben. Den Teig in eine rechteckige Backform (20 x 30 cm) geben und im vorgeheizten Backofen bei 180 Grad für 30 Minuten backen.

Mit einem runden Ausstecher Kreise aus dem Teig schneiden. Die Mini Törtchen horizontal in der Mitte durchschneiden. Mit Preiselbeermarmelade füllen und wieder zusammensetzen. Die Mini-Törtchen mit Schokoglasur als Drip Cakes garnieren. Auf die noch warme Glasur frische Preiselbeeren geben.
Foto: cookingcatrin


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