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Kuba reloaded


Schnell noch Kuba sehen, bevor nichts mehr ist, wie es einmal war. Das denken sich seit Beginn der  Annäherungen von USA und Kuba vor rund einem Jahr, und nach über 50jähriger Feindschaft der Staaten, dieser Tage viele. Was erwartet einen auf Kuba? Eine Winterreise und eine Ansichtssache über eine Insel voller Tristesse und Lebensfreude.

Taxi, Taxi!“, ruft es hinter einer Hausecke hervor, dann rauscht ein gelbes Auto aus den 50er-Jahren um die Ecke. Kurz verharrt es an der Kreuzung, bevor es vor einer Häuserreihe in schrillem Rot und Türkis parkt. Eine Frau stürmt aus dem Haus und begrüßt den Fahrer hektisch. Die Touristen aus Europa seien schon so gut wie auf dem Weg, sprudelt es in schnellem Spanisch aus ihr heraus, sie haben zwei Zimmer gebucht und sind jetzt vom Flughafen abzuholen. Und schon verschwindet das gelbe Taxi wieder in der Ferne.

Alltag auf Kuba. Für zusätzliches Geld stecken die Kubaner ihre Köpfe stundenlang in die Motorhaube ihrer alten Autos, um sie in Schuss zu halten und streichen ihre bröckelnden, maroden Häuserfassaden in schrillen, lebensfrohen Farben, um bei Touristen Aufmerksamkeit zu erregen und sie als Gast ins Innere zu locken. Ein blaues Ankerzeichen neben der Haustüre verrät, dass die Inhaber Zimmer an Touristen vermieten dürfen. Denn ob Taxifahrten oder die Vermietung von Privatzimmern – das private Geschäft auf der Karibikinsel floriert. Propiocuentistas nennt man jene Menschen, die auf eigene Rechnung arbeiten und sich als Uhrmacher, Friseure, Schuster oder eben Taxifahrer und Vermieter selbstständig gemacht haben. Um die Versorgung der Bevölkerung zu verbessern, erlaubt das Regime private Märkte. Beträgt das monatliche Durchschnittseinkommen eines Kubaners doch umgerechnet nur 20 Euro.

Zwischen Tristesse und Lebensfreude

Schnell noch Kuba sehen, bevor die Amis kommen, und nichts mehr ist, wie es einmal war. Das denken sich dieser Tage viele. Denn mehr als ein halbes Jahrhundert nach dem Beginn der Feindschaft zwischen Kuba und den USA nähern sich die Staaten erstmals wieder einander an, und die Zukunft der Karibikinsel scheint ungewiss. So haben im ersten Halbjahr 2015 über zwei Millionen Touristen – hauptsächlich aus Österreich, Deutschland, Großbritannien, Frankreich und Kanada – die Insel besucht, das sind nach Angaben des statistischen Amtes 17 Prozent mehr als im gleichen Zeitraum des Vorjahres. Viele Touristen versuchen, Kuba im Ist-Zustand festzuhalten, wie der deutsche Fotograf Werner Pawlok, der mit aktuellen Bildern kürzlich tief in die Welt Kubas eingetaucht ist und damit festgehalten hat, was viele befürchten, bald für immer verloren zu haben: den einzigartigen Charme Kubas. Der aufmerksame Tourist braucht allerdings nicht lange, um die Welt der Kubaner kennen zu lernen. Gebrechliche Pferdefuhrwerke und Oldtimer in schrillen Farben, Männer, die auf der Straße Domino spielen, bunt gekleidete Frauen, die sich als Fotomotive anbieten, beschwingte Son-Musik aus urigen Innenhöfen, der Duft von Tabak in der Nase, Baden am Karibikstrand und Essen in privaten Restaurants, den Palandares – einmal dort gewesen, lässt einen die Tristesse und Lebensfreude der Insel so schnell nicht mehr los.

Azurblaues Meer, Tabak und

kubanische Revolution

Die beste Form, um Kuba kennenzulernen, ist, die Insel auf eigene Faust zu erkunden, sich einfach treiben zu lassen und den Kontakt zu den Menschen selbst zu suchen. So reicht das Buchen eines Flugs und die Fixierung der einen oder anderen Station für eine Kubareise aus, will man das authentische Kuba außerhalb der Touristenburgen und Hotels kennenlernen. Mindestens drei Wochen sollten für eine Kuba-Reise in jedem Fall eingeplant werden. Die meisten Touristen landen am Airport Varadero Juan Gualberto Gómez, in der kubanischen Provinz Matanzas an der Nordküste der Insel. Varadero gilt als Touristenhochburg Kubas, in welcher sich große und kleine Hotels aneinanderreihen. Ist das ursprüngliche und wirkliche Kuba hier auch nicht spürbar, so fühlt man sich an dem langen, weißen Sandstrand und dem azurblauen Meer trotzdem auf der Stelle wie im Paradies. Weiter Richtung Süden ist die Stadt Santa Clara aufgrund des Museo y Monumento Memorial Comandante Ernesto Che Guevara einen Abstecher wert. Es gilt als nationales Denkmal der kubanischen Revolution und beherbergt seit 1997 auch das Mausoleum Che Guevaras.

In der bereits 1514 gegründeten Stadt Trinidad sollten schließlich einige Tage eingerechnet werden, um den Flair der Stadt voll einatmen zu können. Untertags lädt der 13 Kilometer entfernte Karibikstrand Playa Ancon zum Faulenzen ein, eine Fahrt dorthin mit dem Coco Taxi ist ein Erlebnis!  Auch sollte ein Ausflug nach Valle de los Ingenious mit dem alten Zug ins Land hinein eingeplant werden. In Torre Ignanza kann selbst nach alter Tradition Zuckerrohr gepresst und getrunken werden. Zum Sonnenuntergang verwandelt sich der Plaza Mayor Trinidads schließlich in eine Welt voller Son-Musik und Life-Salsa-Shows. Auf den Stufen mit Blick in den Sonnenuntergang schmecken ein kühles kubanisches Bier, ein Bucanero oder ein Mojito besonders gut
. Der Plaza Mayor in Trinidad ist angeblich der eleganteste Platz ganz Kubas, um ihn herum gruppieren sich die ehemaligen Stadtresidenzen der ehemals reichsten Familien der Stadt, der Iznagas, der Ortiz und der Brunets. In Pinar del Rio schließlich, der westlichsten Provinz Kubas, wächst der beste Tabak der Welt. Die einzigartige Landschaft und den Duft des Tabaks in Vinales sollte man sich nicht entgehen lassen. Am besten ist dies auf dem Pferd zu erleben und bietet einzigartige Abstecher zu kleinen Tabakplantagen. Auch die berühmten Felsmalereien Mural de la Prehistoria, die Höhle Cueva del Indio und die zahlreichen Fincas sind einen Ausflug wert.

In Maria la Gorda, etwa drei Autostunden von Vinales entfernt und vorbei an der Tabak-Finca von Monsieur Robina, dem Erschaffer der Cohiba-Zigarre, eröffnet sich dem Tauchsportliebhaber und Faulenzer schließlich ein Paradies mit Korallenriffen und Einsamkeit. Da erschlägt den Ruheverwöhnten die Geschäftigkeit Havannas schließlich beinahe. Aber diese Stadt darf bei keiner Kubareise fehlen! Der Plaza Vieja und die Straße Obispa haben sich fein herausgeputzt. In jedem Fall einen Abstecher wert ist das El Florida, in welchem bereits Ernest Hemingway seine Daiquiris genossen hat. Eine Büste in dem Lokal erinnert noch heute an seinen prominenten Gast

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. Zu den weiteren Sehenswürdigkeiten in Havanna zählen die Burg La Fuerza und der alte Friedhof Havannas mit 800.000 Gräbern und 100.000 Grabdenkmälern, das Museum de la Revolution und der Plaza de la Revolution. Auf der Mauer des Innenministeriums blicken Che Guevara und Camilo Cienfuegos auf den Besucher herab und erinnern an die Geschichte Kubas. Auf dem Malecon, der berühmten Uferpromenade der Stadt, lässt es sich schließlich zu jeder Tageszeit rasten und staunen.

Zuhause bei den Kubanern

Das europäische Touristenpärchen hat mittlerweile auf der großzügigen Dachterrasse des kubanischen Vermieters Platz genommen. Der Tisch ist reichlich gedeckt mit traditionellen Speisen wie Reis mit Bohnen, gekochten Bananen, frischem Huhn und einem bunten Obstteller mit Früchten der Region, Bier Cristal oder Bucanero, Mojito. Vor dem Haus startet bereits wieder der Motor und dann flitzt das gelbe Auto aus den 50er Jahren wieder um die Ecke, auf der Suche nach Touristen, die Taxidienste in Anspruch nehmen möchten.

Eva Pittertschatscher


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