beitrag_boston

Backstein und Glas


Von der Wiege Amerikas zum Stiefkind der US-Ostküste – wir sagen Ihnen, warum Boston sich nicht vor New York zu verstecken braucht und warum die Hauptstadt von Massachusetts sogar in vielerlei Hinsicht die Nase vorne hat.
Ein Artikel von Andreas Feichtenberger

Boston ist eine Stadt der Vielfalt, der Tradition, der Wissenschaft und der Kultur. Hier lässt sich kulinarisch die Welt erleben, nach Herzenslust shoppen, zig verschiedene Baustile könnten entdeckt werden und es lässt sich in der rund 700.000 Einwohner zählenden Metropole vor allem eines: sehr gut leben. Zugegeben, die Stadt ist teuer. In puncto Hotelpreise sind sich die beiden benachbarten Städte New York und Boston einig: Wer billig wohnen möchte, soll nach Alabama oder Louisiana reisen. Wer weniger tief in die Tasche greifen möchte, sollte einen Besuch dennoch nicht gleich in den Wind schreiben. Günstig unterkommen kann man in den Randbezirken Bostons und gemeinsam mit den zahlreichen Studenten, die hier günstige Wohnungen gefunden haben, mit den gut ausgebauten öffentlichen Verkehrsmitteln ins Zentrum pendeln. Boston beherbergt nämlich zahlreiche Universitäten, zwei von ihnen zählen zu den besten der Welt: Harvard und das Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT). Vor allem Harvard gilt mit seinen historischen Bauten als beliebter Anziehungspunkt für Touristen und ist auf jeden Fall einen Besuch wert. Schließlich ist sie die älteste Hochschule der USA und ein paar der größten Persönlichkeiten haben hier ihren Abschluss gemacht – darunter Mark Zuckerberg, Bill Gates und Barack Obama.

Eine rote Linie
Doch gestartet wird die Tour durch Boston an anderer Stelle – sowohl das MIT als auch Harvard sind nämlich etwas außerhalb der City. Grundsätzlich macht es die Stadt ihren Besuchern ziemlich leicht, sich zu orientieren. Denn quer durch Boston führt der so genannte „Freedom Trail“, ein gekennzeichneter Weg, der Touristen zu den wichtigsten historischen Schauplätzen führt. Insgesamt sind es 16 Sehenswürdigkeiten, die man auf dem rund 4 km langen Trail zu sehen bekommt. Alles, was die Be-sucher tun müssen, ist der roten Linie von einem Stadtteil in den nächsten zu folgen. Wer sich zusätzlich Informa-tionen zu den Plätzen holen möchte, kann eine der täglich durchgeführten Touren mit Guide buchen – da könnte sich New York durchaus eine Scheibe abschneiden. Einsteigen lässt sich in den Freedom Trail natürlich überall, es bietet sich jedoch der älteste Park der Stadt an, der Boston Common. Die Anlage liegt phantastisch, auf der einen Seite umgeben von Hochhäusern, auf der anderen von den berühmten roten Backsteinbauten von Beacon Hill und Back Bay. Diese beiden Stadtteile repräsentieren den alten Teil der Stadt. Die Fassaden aus dem 19. Jahrhundert und die von Bäumen gesäumten Straßen laden zum Flanieren und Verweilen ein, hier findet sich auch die berühmteste Shoppingmeile Bostons, die Newbury Street. Beeindruckendes Fotomotiv ist in dieser Gegend die Trinity Church aus dem Jahr 1877, die direkt neben dem 241 Meter hohen und voll verglasten John Hancock Tower einen fabelhaften Kontrast abgibt. Ein ähnliches Flair vermittelt das Old State House, das älteste Haus der Stadt, das sich wie ein gallisches Dorf zwischen riesigen Wolkenkratzern seinen Platz erkämpfen musste.

Geschichte hautnah
Apropos alt: In Boston hat sich 1630 der erste Siedler aus England, William Blaxton, niedergelassen und mit ihm kamen über die Jahrzehnte Einwanderer aus Deutschland, Irland, Polen und Russland. Diesem einzigartigen Mix verdankt Boston heute seine unvergleichliche Vielfalt. Berühmt ist Boston aber auch für ein anderes geschichtliches Geschehnis, die Boston Tea Party, die zum Unabhängigkeitskrieg führte und infolgedessen sich Amerika von Großbritannien loslöste. Dieses Ereignis können Touristen sogar nachspielen. Im Tea Party Museum werden den Besuchern die historischen Begebenheiten nahegebracht und zum Abschluss dürfen alle, denen es in den Fingern juckt, sogar falsche Teepakete über Bord eines alten Segelschiffs schmeißen. Das mag nur Touristen-unterhaltung sein, man kann aber mit Fug und Recht behaupten, dass Boston aufgrund dieser Historie als die Wiege Amerikas angesehen werden kann. Doch zurück zum Freedom Trail: Gleich neben dem Park Richtung Norden liegt das State House, das den Regierungssitz von Massachusetts beherbergt – leicht zu erkennen an der gewaltigen goldenen Kuppel. Von dort geht es weiter Richtung Faneuil Hall und zum Quincy Market. Diese Gebäude sind ein absolutes Muss – im Qunicy Market finden sich zig verschiedene Restaurants. Unter anderem kann man dort natürlich auch eine für Boston ganz typische Lobster Roll kaufen, ein Sandwich mit Hummerfleisch. Noch besseren Hummer aber findet man bei James Hook & Co. im Hafenviertel, der so genannten Waterfront, die sich gleich in der Nähe befindet.

Flanieren am Wasser
Generell ist Waterfront ein faszinierendes Viertel von Boston. Frei von Autos, dafür aber mit fantastischen Aussichten kann man entlang des Harbor Walk an der Promenade entlang spazieren, den Fähren beim An- und Ablegen zusehen und tolle Yachten beobachten. Wer noch weiter Richtung Norden wandert, stößt am Ende des Freedom Trails auf das älteste noch seetüchtige Kriegsschiff der Welt, die U.S.S. Constitution aus dem Jahr 1794. Aber auch ein neueres Kriegsschiff liegt dort vor Anker und kann besichtigt werden. Die Schiffe sind zwar etwas ab vom Schuss, aber wer sich für Seefahrt interessiert, sollte sie keinesfalls auslassen. Und noch ein Grund spricht für einen Besuch: Vom Freilichtmuseum fährt eine Fähre zurück zur Waterfront. Die Fahrgäste bekommen so einen fantastischen Blick auf die Skyline von Boston und das zu einem Spotpreis. Wer mehr von der Stadt sehen möchte und auf eine Seefahrt nicht verzichten will, kann eine Tour mit einem Amphibienfahrzeug buchen, das sowohl zu Land als auch zu Wasser unterwegs ist. Kostet mehr als eine Fähre, ist aber ein unvergesslicher Spaß.

Und was noch?
Wer sämtliche historischen Spots entlang des Freedom Trails gefunden hat, bereits in Back Bay shoppen war, eine Bootsfahrt unternommen hat, im Quincy Market essen war und im Boston Common Eichhörnchen gefüttert hat, muss noch nicht heim fahren. Einen Besuch ist jedenfalls auch der Fenway Park wert, das Heimstadion des Baseballteams Boston Red Sox. Steht die Mannschaft am Rasen, ist die Stadt im Ausnahmezustand. Wer ein Ticket für ein Heimspiel ergattern möchte, muss früh dran sein. Außerdem lohnt sich ein Abstecher nach China Town

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. Das farbenfrohe chinesische Viertel ist sicher nicht so groß wie jenes in New York, gutes asiatisches Essen ist aber dennoch garantiert. Sehenswerte Einkaufszentren sind das Prudential Center oder das Copley Place, wenn es einmal regnen sollte. Um am Ende nochmals den Vergleich zwischen New York und Boston zu strapazieren: Boston mag weniger Besucher anlocken, die Lebensqualität in dieser Stadt, die Geschichte, die Kunst und Kultur sowie das moderne und internationale Flair Bostons können dem Big Apple locker den Rang ablaufen – bleibt nur die Frage, ob das auch gewünscht ist…

Fotos: Andreas Feichtenberger

Mehr Meer
Wem die Hafenrundfahrt nicht gereicht hat, der kann innerhalb kürzester Zeit ein paar der schönsten Strände in den USA erreichen. Rund um Boston liegen zig Kilometer feinste Sandstrände. Beispielsweise am Coast Guard Beach, der alle Jahre wieder zum Top-Familienstrand der USA gewählt wird. Mit ein bisschen Glück kann man am Revere Beach den besten Sandburgbauern der Welt beim Sand Sculpting Festival zusehen. Was hier aus Sand gezaubert wird, ist schlicht unglaublich. Die perfekte Welle finden Surfer am Long Beach und wenn es das Wetter und die Natur wollen, lassen sich Seehunde am Chatham Lighthouse Beach beobachten.
Apropos: In Boston kann man auch Whale Watching Touren buchen. Immer wieder gibt es Sichtungen von Buckel-, Finn- oder auch Glattwalen.


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